Buddhist and Khmer Traditions

Pictured: At the temple with villagers

KAO PANSA
Apparently in the midst of PST II, life skills camps, and consolidation simulations, I forgot to mention the important 3-month period of time we are in right now: Pansa. Vassa or Pansa is what some people call Buddhist Lent. However, having talked to many people and done some research on it, this description is problematic since the “Lenten” season often attaches Christian origins and rituals. Vassa, may more accurately be described at the rain retreat season, which lasts 3 month from July to October. See also: Vassa The Buddhist cosmic calendar determines Pansa and the dates of it depend on a fixed lunar/celestial position. Origins of Pansa date back centuries during the early period of Buddhism when Buddhas proposed that farmers and villagers should take a ‘rest’ period while waiting for the crops to grow. This would also ensure that travelers would not damage crops during the growth period. Monks suggested people could use Pansa to reconnect to Buddhist precepts and with their communities. Since people in Thailand practice Theravada Buddhism, the Pansa season for Mahayana Buddhists may not mean the same thing or may not even be observed at all. Although, from what I gather, Zen and Tibetan Buddhists practice similar occasions.
During Pansa, villagers re-commit to their Buddhist roots and observe more rigorous devotion through meditation, merit making, and chanting. They also visit the temple more often since there are more observable holy days during Passa. In addition, temple populations almost double during this time as well because many people use the Vassa period as an opportunity to take up monastic vows and join the monkhood for a pre-determined amount of time. This usually occurs during the days leading into Pansa and the day that marks the beginning of Vassa called Wan Kao Pansa”. I missed the full effect of Wan Kao Pansa because I was in PST II training during this time. But, apparently it’s a very huge event and one of the biggest traditional ceremonies that takes place is the Candlelight Ceremony in Ubon Ratchathani—a city in Isan relatively close to my site. It’s the biggest; most recognized Wan Kao Pansa festival. I’ll definitely have to make plans to go next year.

The Phenomena of ‘Ngan Buats’
When a man/layperson decides to enter the monkhood for a determined amount of time—like during Pansa—he has what is called a ‘ngan buat’ which I can only describe as a ‘monk party’. I know that’s not the proper term and doesn’t really capture the purpose of the occasion but, I really can’t think of any other way to explain it! And, although ngan buat’s are more prevalent during Pansa, they also take place throughout the year. It’s very common for a young man from 18-25 to have a ngan buat and enter the monkhood for a certain amount of time. So, what happens during a ngan buat? I think it would be more appropriate to ask...what doesn’t happen?! My first experience with a ngan buat was back in pre-service training. I now know that no two ngan buats are not alike and depending on the family they can be a very extravagant or fairly simple event. I’ve observed that people drink and party a lot during ngan buats and they are just as important rites of passages as weddings and funerals. More times than not, ngan buats are usually coupled with a full on shin-dig complete with tons of food, booze, dancing, singing, and half-naked women and/or trans-gendered ‘ladyboys’ providing entertainment. They usually take a couple days. The first day begins with a parade-esque march throughout town with music and dancing while the honored person sits on a thrown-like chair on the back of a pickup truck. The second day is the big shin-dig I already mentioned typically complete with go-go dancers and the third day is when the man takes up his vows to officially begins his monkhood at the temple. I think the idea of all the hoopla is to honor the man/young boy that has decided to enter the monkhood by holding a party for him complete with all the vices he will soon be giving up. It’s quite a thing to experience.

Going Temple-ing
As you might have guessed, I have been taking part routinely in Pansa events in my community. My neighbors usually ask me ahead of time if I will be joining them for the morning excursion to the temple to observe the holy day with them. I have been 4 times thus far during Pansa. It has become a good way for me to get to know people in a different setting and share in their cultural customs. Going to the temple obligates people to dress a certain way, prepare offerings (usually foodstuff) and make monetary donations if possible. The first time I went, I got a lesson in this protocol. It was fun for my neighbors to teach me how to properly dress and act in the temple—even though I thought I already knew the etiquette. My first Pansa holy day experience started early one morning about a month ago. My neighbor dressed me in one of her finest paksins (like a sarong) and had me carry baskets of fruit and steamed rice. When we got to the temple, I somehow was directed to the ‘back room’ where all the excitement occurs. It was a hustle bustle of village women preparing food, eating, and reminiscing. I was immediately sat down and given a bowl of steaming rice with 4 or 5 dishes to compliment it. Not what I expected though, I wasn’t really surprised because Thai people are always cooking and eating! That lasted until I could no long eat anymore. Then, we went to the main temple where people were already sitting in prayer position. We did the usually ‘wai’ to the Buddha (kneeling and bowing 3 times to the Buddha—kind of like in Islam when people put their hands to the floor and then back up in prayer position). Then we waited for the monks to arrive. People intermittently made monetarily offerings and sat in meditation. When the monks came, we sat with our hands folded as they proceeded to chant for a good 30 minutes. At some point, I got up with my neighbor and we put our offerings of fruit and rice on a table. Before I knew it, we were done and on our way home. Not every time I’ve been to the temple is exactly the same but it usually goes a little something like the latter.

Wan San Dton Dta
Unique to the area in which I live is a spiritual festival called Wan San Dton Dta. I’m not sure if it’s coincidental that it falls during Pensa or if it’s purposely that way. This is a Khmer tradition observed only by surrounding sub-districts here. It takes place usually in September or October. The title “San Dton Dta” comes from the Khmer language and actually when I asked some Thai people from Peace Corps about it, many of them did not even understand the words because they don’t speak Khmer. Most had no idea of what I was talking about. Interesting! I first misinterpreted Dton Dta as the Khmer New Year but it is, in fact, something else. As I understand it, Wan San Dton Dta originates from the Khmer era (dating back to 900-1100 A.D.). The significance of Dton Dta comes from the animist and Brahman beliefs that celestial and spiritual inhabit and visit Earth—and therefore, should be recognized and revered. During this 3-day long festival villagers gather to prepare elaborate fruit and food baskets, dress in traditional Khmer clothing, practice ancient dance and organize parade floats to present at the annual parade ceremony in the District. Wan San Dton Dta presents an opportunity for people of Khmer ancestry to come together and pay respects to their common ancestral spirits. It is the local belief that the spirits of the deceased come back to visit on this special occasion and people use this opportunity to acknowledge their ancestors that have passed on an ask for good fortune in their lives. Villagers take great pride in the local custom of Wan San Dton Dta and often welcome guests to observe this special tradition.
This year, Wan San Dton Dta will take place on or around September 18. I am really excited to take part in this event next month. The people I work with have already elected me to dress in traditional clothing and walk with them in the parade. As San Dton Dta quickly approach in the next couple weeks, I will keep everyone posted on new developments!