Cooking and Eating Thai Food

Perhaps, sometimes I talk about things too generally and I would like to dedicate more attention to specific areas of daily life. One area that deserves more attention is food. It is, of course, central to living. In addition, if you know me, you know that cooking is one of my favorite things to do and explore. Back home, I am a connoisseur of creating and trying new dishes. I seldom use recipes rather, I try to invent my own combination of ingredients that more often than not turn out to be a jumble of wonderfullness. For me, the fun of cooking and enjoying the food I've created is being inventive, not following recipes, and learning by trial and error. It's a little like my life motto...

At any rate, being placed in Thailand has definitely been to my advantage in nurturing my passion for cooking (and eating). Thailand has been known as the 'kitchen to the world' and is widely recognized as having an array of fresh fruits, vegetables, legumes, herbs, spices, and meats coupled with some of the finest chefs who know how to turn these raw materials into amazing dishes. When I traveled to Thailand three years ago, I was able to get an introduction into Thai food and Thai cooking. With my limited knowledge, I grew into regularly cooking currys and stir-frys for family and friends back home. But, now that I have been here for 3 months, my horizons have expanded.

It should be a truism that most every Thai woman is an amazing cook. I was lucky to have lived with such women and continue to be surrounded by them. So far, I have picked up on new styles of cooking--like using a wak or a grindstone and mallet. My host families have taught me to make a Thai omlet, perfect a curry, cook using new spices and herbs (namely tamarind, lemongrass. and various types of basil), deep fry seafood, and fry vegetables in ways I never thought possible. I've also begun to learn the art of making Papaya Salad and different renditions of it using other vegetables and levels of spice. Just think, this is only the beginning! I get excited just thinking about the possibilities of everything I have yet to learn.

On the eating side, things are going just as well. Before I departed to Thailand, I was cautioned that men Volunteers usually lose weight and women Volunteers usually gain. Now I understand why. Obviously, men and women's bodies adapt differently to changes in diet and metabolism. Eating rice 3 times a day (I believe) can be a partial reason as to why women gain weight. It's also just generally easy to eat more than is necessary because the food is so darn good and Thais love to cook and eat as a social pastimes. I've experienced this firsthand both in the home and at restaurants. It is impressive how much Thai people can eat yet remain so tiny in stature! I can honestly say that though Thai Restaurants back in the States have very good food, the food there hardly compares to the real deal in Thailand. It just does not do it justice. I sometimes wonder what my life was like before Pad Thai and mangoes and sticky rice! Daft!

Alas, I have come to a happy medium and am learning to cook and enjoy food in Thailand through moderation and slowing down to savor every last bite. As far as I know, I've managed to ward off the "New Volunteer 15" (15 Lbs., that is) through a balance of diet and exercise (biking every day helps). But, nevertheless, I continue to enjoy every meal and in between food. It is also worth noting that eating for most Thais is a social and/or family event. It is a time when people can come together and enjoy the company of each other while enjoying their meals. People spend hours meticulously preparing meals and spend an equal amount around the table eating. This is something I would like to relay back home to those of us who get caught up in the hustle and bustle of life and make mealtime a quick fix to fulfill a necessity. Cooking and eating does not need to be a necessity or burden but it can be a time to slow down, gather with family and friends, discover a talent in cooking you thought you never had, and enjoying eating to live. This is something Thai culture has revived in me and perhaps something I knew all along from my own upbringing (thanks to my parents for trying to instill the value of the "slow food" movement) that I think we can all benefit from.

Swear-In, Moving to Site, and Son Kran

Pictured at swear-in with Thai friends

‘We stood up as trainees and we sat down as volunteers’

Swear-In and Counterpart Conference

Greetings from Isssssan! Since my last entry, I have sworn-in and can now call myself an official Peace Corps Volunteer. Swear-in entails a standardized procedure that takes place once Trainees pass training competencies and prove themselves ready and able to serve as Volunteers. It is an affirmation—more than anything—which all Volunteers in all countries go through. It is comparable to civil servants taking an oath before witnesses to testify their commitment and aptitude to serve (like when Senators take an oath before Congress). Usually, the United States Ambassador to the respective country of Service will perform the swear-in—such was the case for our swear-in.

Also in attendance at our swear-in were our site supervisor-counterparts. Attending the swear-in was a good opportunity for supervisor counterparts to see Volunteers affirm commitment to service. Before the swear-in, all Volunteers met with their supervisor counterparts and attended a counterpart conference. Supervisor Counterparts are those individual who have elected to be site supervisors and are responsible at the sub-district office to—in a way—oversee the Volunteer’s work. Part of being a counterpart can also entail working as colleagues and co-facilitators along side the Volunteers. Actually, volunteers are expected to have many ‘field’ counterparts that fulfill the later as they move to site and develop relationships with people.

Being at the conference made me realize that some counterparts are more willing and enthusiastic than others to work with Volunteers. Luckily, my counterpart is excited to work with me and we have similar viewpoints. It was exciting to get to know each other better and talk about the many projects we were both eager to get started on at site. Together we formulated a 6-month ‘action’ plan consisting of detailed activities and possible projects.

Moving to site during Son Kran

Immediately following swear-in, I said goodbye to all my fellow trainees and training staff and departed to site with my counterpart. 6 hours later I was a world away from training and swear-in and all the things I had come to know at my training site. Moving to site is a time of great change, excitement, trial, and acclimation. I don’t think being away from my training group has fully hit me yet. I feel more like I am on vacation especially because it is currently a time of excitement and celebration—definitely not the norm for daily endeavors. I can honestly say that I have paused my ‘regularly-programmed’ activities in lieu of it being in the midst of Son Kran—the Thai New Year.

It is the hottest time of year coupled with arguably the happiest time of year. I had mentioned in my last entry that on April 13 (Son Kran) the year in the Buddhist calander would change to 2553. Now I stand corrected. Today I learned that some time ago, the official change date was altered to match that of the Western Calendar—on January 1. So, technically the year should be changing to 2552 but instead of having it in April, it already occurred in January. Kao jai mai ka? Translation: Do you understand? I get that a lot!

Well actually the fun part about Son Kran is what you really want to know, right? It is a water splashing, family gatherings, making merit, dance your socks off (but not really because it’s too hot to wear socks), rip-roaring good time! Everyone comes home for Son Kran like when people come home for Thanksgiving or Christmas in the States. In the province where I live, many young adults migrate to Bangkok or Udon to find work or go to school. So since people have come back for Son Kran to be with their families, the population of my district has more than doubled. It is also customary during Son Kran to celebrate by splashing and throwing water, which signifies ‘cleansing’ off the old year and entering anew fresh and clean. This custom is one of the most unique and central activities of Son Kran. People often gather in big groups in the back of pick-ups, at their houses, or alongside roads and splash water on passer-bys while wishing a Happy New Year. Inevitably, I participated and thoroughly enjoyed getting drenched all the while returning the favor in the hot sun. It has been a nice change from the rigid and stressful life of a trainee!

Another important activity of Son Kran is making a special merit/ offering at the temple and receiving a New Year Blessing. Relating to this is making an offering to an elderly person in the family or community and receiving a blessing from them. I encountered this with my host family yesterday while at a large family gathering. I had the opportunity to make an offering to my host grandmother and receive a blessing from her. She did this by pouring flower-scented water on me and brush a flower branch over my forehead while saying a blessing. It was an extraordinary experience.