Reflections Thus Far

Making Papaya Salad ("Som Thom") with friends

As I approach my 100 day marker of living in Thailand and my first month at site, I reflect upon the many changes I have experienced. And, through this reflection, I realize that my real perception of living in Thailand and encountering Thai culture is fundamentally different from what I perceived it would be pre-arrival. Granted, it was hard to truly conceive an idea of what it would be like before arrival. I more or less, thought it would be like the Thailand I encountered 3 years ago when I visited as a tourist for one week. As an exchange student in Australia, I took the opportunity to travel to Thailand with a friend of mine—both of us certain the chance would never arise again (what a spoof that was!) As backpackers, we encountered a tropical Land of Smiles, hard-working people, booming tourist industry, rich cultural heritage, a consumer’s paradise, big city excitement, and traditional country living. Sure, by venturing as backpackers and visiting hill tribes, we got to encounter the culture more intimately than a “traditional tourist” but now I can fully appreciate my once limited knowledge of the place and the people. Before, as a visitor, I only skimmed the surface of daily endeavors of foreigners/visitors/expats and Thais alike. Even now, I become aware of my still limited insight and brace myself for how my perception will change after the next 100 days and on in to my service. What is more, my perpsective is limited to my personal experiences in two rural communites and only a small taste of what life is like in a modern city like Bangkok. Therefore, I cannot hollistic perspective.

First of all, my reflection tells me that history inevitable plays a role in the present life. My current experience shows that though life changes with time, traditions remain steadfast in Thai communities. Many people make merit, cook food, have funerals, grow rice, wear traditional clothing, and get married in accordance with the same customs their ancestors practiced. These things I have experienced first hand almost daily by partaking in cooking, merit making, wedding celebrations, and visiting with villagers. In addition to the continuity of tradition, are the perspectives on life, career, and family that follow traditional thinking. For many rural communities, farming practices and techniques are very much the same as they were 30-40 years ago. In addition, people continue to think highly of professionals like doctors, teachers, and monks. And, though in some households, both the mother and father work, the traditional family roles are steadfast--the mother or grandmother still raises the children, cooks, and looks after the house while the father is the primary bread-winner.

Fa-rangs

In the same vein, from a historical perspective, the idea of a foreigner--for many rural folks--is similar to what is was during WWII and the Vietnam War. Many people perceive foreigners as vacationers, adventure seekers, wanderers, sexual tourists, people searching for a spouse, teachers, missionaries, or military personnel. Of course, there are other perspectives of foreigners--for better or worse--but these are the immpressions I can attest to, as many of my conversations have revolved around the nature of my being here and how villagers perceive "farangs" (foreigners). It drives home the point that no matter how big or small, all travelers leave an impression that inevitably leaves a president for future travelers. When you are in the very miniscule, obvious minority, you live in a fishbowl and every action goes noted.

In my mind, whenever I think of encountering other cultures and leaving an impression just because we all belong to the human race but look different and have adapted different forms of livlihood, I am reminded of the famous line by John Dunne from Meditation XVII: " No man is an island, entire of itself; every man is a piece of the continent, a part of the main." And, though I cannot erase the preconceptions I bring as a foreigner, since I do belong this great continent of humanity and all it's history, I can try my best to instill a different sort of impression--one that is my own. My experience of Thai culture is that Thais often and blatantly state the obvious: " he/she is fat", " I'm starving!", "Look at that farang!" I can say, in my hundred days of being here, I have heard the word 'farang' so many times that I can hear it ringing in my sleep and piercing my ears as I ride my bike down a busy road. But, it is not something I can change and I fully recognize the connotation and historical precept that comes with it. So, I accept this and try to talk to as many people as I can and relay who I am and what I represent--to let them know that I do not fall into any of the farang categories stated above. People are weary of me at first. It's hard to be accepted into and trusted by a society that is so close-knit and bound to one another. I do my best. I let people see pictures of my home, tell them what life is like in the United States, about personal experiences of my own, about my family, my studies, my spirituality, likes/dislikes, etc. I also try to be genuine in wanting to share in their daily lives and helping with acivities in the community. Through these actions and relationship building, people slowly start to recognize me by name or my given nickname, "Chom Phu" and not simply as "the farang" It also helps that I happen to like people and socializing! By humanizing myself, being open and available, I am minimizing what I call the 'farang effect".

On the flip side of history and tradition playing a part of daily life, I see contemporary lifestyles and the spread of globalism introducing changes every where I look. Western pop culture and movies make there way into television sets in even the most remote areas. Lattes, cell phones, internet, 7-11's, suburnans, wal-mart prototypes, to-go cups, and the ever-popular "playboy" logo seem to appear everywhere. Even just a few miles from my secluded agrarian community, stands a Tesco Lotus--a Wal-Mart-like one-stop Supercenter. And, as I see the stretches of modernity reaching the remote community of my site, I am reminded of the inevitability of an ever-changing world and culture. In anthropology we learn that culture is as alive as people--people adapt, people change, people migrate, ideas spread, technology grows, trends change.

This brings me to my current state of taking it all in. Well, actually I am always in that state, only with varying levels of awareness. Now I am faced with how to achieve my personal and community goals (as a Peace Corps Volunteer) through a cultural exchange, compromise of differing ideas and world views, and as promotor of peace, knowledge, and the pursuit of a positive change in the human condition. Of which, I realize, only so much of the "how" can be planned before the nature of things falls into accordance. Thus, I am left with taking it one day, one moment at a time--never skipping a beat, having faith, and seeing what happens.